HAARLEM (yes, with 2 A's)

 When in The Netherlands, do like the Dutch. Everyone rides bikes here. There are specific bike lanes in both directions on practically all streets, and specific traffic lights for cyclists. Bike theft is the most common petty crime in this country (60,000/year just in Amsterdam), so everyone has at least 2 locks on their bikes. Our rental apartment included 2 bicycles, so we are taking advantage to feel like we are locals.

 Markets are one of the reasons we rent apartments or studios when we travel to Europe. We love to cook, so shopping at the local markets and cooking fresh food we buy is a big part of the experience for us.
We are glad we decided to rent our place in Haarlem, a quick 20 minute train ride from Amsterdam. Haarlem is a little cheaper, and much quieter and manageable than Amsterdam. 

 St. Bavo Church, the 15th century landmark in Haarlem. It was originally a Catholic church, but became Protestant along much of the country in the late 15th century (Dutch Reformation). In 1566, Protestant extremists stripped the church of its graven images and ornate Catholic trappings, leaving it relatively stark, with minimal decoration.

 The Organ is the highlight of this church. Finished in 1738, it is not the largest in Europe, but it's one of the best. In 1766, Mozart played this organ in Haarlem at the tail end of his triumphant 3 year whirlwind European tour. Handel played here in 1740, the year before his famous Messiah oratorio debuted.

 The ornate pulpit, silent witness to countless sermons, some not worth the paper they were written on.

 About 1,500 wealthy Dutch are buried in crypts that make up the floor of the church, allowing them to be a step closer to salvation. Even though the bodies were embalmed, they still stunk, so the poor parishioners had to put up with the stench of thier wealthy brethren when they attended church

 A cannon ball placed on the wall of the church commemorates Haarlem's rebellion against its Spanish oppressors.

 Cedar ceiling from 1530

 Our delicious ice cream break at Gelateria Bartoli

A "skinny" house built in 1624

 Prostitution is not condoned in The Netherlands any more than it is in the US. However, legalizing it allows important controls on the busineses, and health expectations the workers to be enforced. Haarlem has a small Red Light District,