CHRISTMAS 2018

Woodpeckers

Our woodpeckers are back after their summer break frolicking in the higher elevations around us. Above is the chubbiest Hairy Woodpecker we have seen in a while, below is the beautiful Northern Flicker.

HAARLEM

Another great pick as a base during our adventures. Away from the crazy, crowded, often uncomfortable Amsterdam, but only a 15 minute train ride away. Our 10 minute bike ride took us back to the center of Haarlem, which was a bit quieter since it was not market day. 

 Town Hall was surrounded by heavily armed "Politzie" so we assumed a high level meeting was taking place inside

 In the 14th century, Haarlem was Hollnad's most important brewing city. Beer was being shipped in 30 gallon barrels called "Jopen" all over the world. Due to the rise of big brewing operations, Haarlem's rich brewing tradition was lost. In 1994 the revival of Haarlem's brewing history began when 2 beer recipes from 1407 and 1501 were brewed again. In 2010, Jopen Brewery opened in the restored Jacob Church in the old city of Haarlem. We were able to taste and enjoy Hoppenbier, made following the 1501 recipe.

MORE AMSTERDAM

Amsterdam's Royal Palace (above), and New Church (below).

 Not pictured is our visit to the Anne Frank House. We always learn during our adventures, some of which bring out deep emotions within us. That was the case walking through the house where Anne and her family hid for 2 years during the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands. They were eventually found by the Nazi's and sent to concentration camps where all of them except for Anne's father died, Anne at age 15. Her diary has been an affirmation of the uncrushable human spirit.

 A visit to Amsterdam is not complete unless one visits the museum of the Dutch master Van Gogh. His turbulent life, dominated at times by his severe mental illness, only lasted 37 years during which he became a monumental artist. 

 We also visited the Amsterdam Museum (of history) and the Rijksmuseum, where thousands of art objects and paintings are housed, including Rembrandt's famous "The Night Watch"

The Netherlands is a country where people live and let live. Same-sex marriage was legalized in 2001, the first country in the world to do so. Marijuana is legal but "hard drugs" are not. Prostitution is not condoned, but it's legal, which allows the government to control the businesses and set expectations for the health of the workers. Its population is young, friendly, and seem to be dedicated to good family and work values.

AMSTERDAM, A CITY OF CANALS

BICYCLES RULE IN THE NETHERLANDS

The Central Train Station in Haarlem has no car parking facilities, but that's not the case for bikes. You can park your bike outside, in the 3 level parking garage, or the uderground garage.

This is the way you get your bike up or down the parking levels, a rail system for the bikes and steps for the humans

HAARLEM (yes, with 2 A's)

 When in The Netherlands, do like the Dutch. Everyone rides bikes here. There are specific bike lanes in both directions on practically all streets, and specific traffic lights for cyclists. Bike theft is the most common petty crime in this country (60,000/year just in Amsterdam), so everyone has at least 2 locks on their bikes. Our rental apartment included 2 bicycles, so we are taking advantage to feel like we are locals.

 Markets are one of the reasons we rent apartments or studios when we travel to Europe. We love to cook, so shopping at the local markets and cooking fresh food we buy is a big part of the experience for us.
We are glad we decided to rent our place in Haarlem, a quick 20 minute train ride from Amsterdam. Haarlem is a little cheaper, and much quieter and manageable than Amsterdam. 

 St. Bavo Church, the 15th century landmark in Haarlem. It was originally a Catholic church, but became Protestant along much of the country in the late 15th century (Dutch Reformation). In 1566, Protestant extremists stripped the church of its graven images and ornate Catholic trappings, leaving it relatively stark, with minimal decoration.

 The Organ is the highlight of this church. Finished in 1738, it is not the largest in Europe, but it's one of the best. In 1766, Mozart played this organ in Haarlem at the tail end of his triumphant 3 year whirlwind European tour. Handel played here in 1740, the year before his famous Messiah oratorio debuted.

 The ornate pulpit, silent witness to countless sermons, some not worth the paper they were written on.

 About 1,500 wealthy Dutch are buried in crypts that make up the floor of the church, allowing them to be a step closer to salvation. Even though the bodies were embalmed, they still stunk, so the poor parishioners had to put up with the stench of thier wealthy brethren when they attended church

 A cannon ball placed on the wall of the church commemorates Haarlem's rebellion against its Spanish oppressors.

 Cedar ceiling from 1530

 Our delicious ice cream break at Gelateria Bartoli

A "skinny" house built in 1624

 Prostitution is not condoned in The Netherlands any more than it is in the US. However, legalizing it allows important controls on the busineses, and health expectations the workers to be enforced. Haarlem has a small Red Light District,