Saturday, April 10, 2010

CUBA-SIGHTS AROUND LA HABANA

La Habana is a beautiful city. Yes, we were prepared to see the unkept architectural magnificence, and the signs of a deficient infrastructure; but it is still a majestic city. Upon our arrival on Monday afternoon, we followed the advice of Pepe, the husband of the owner of the "casa particular" we stayed in. We headed for La Torre, a bar and restaurant (we followed his advice not to eat there) to have a drink and watch the sunset. Well, we got a lot more than we bargained for-a 360 degree view of the city from La Torre's 33rd floor vantage point  
West-southwest view

Best view from La Torre was east. The Hotel Nacional dominates the left foreground of this image. 
Southeast view of the city
Want to guess how old these gas pumps are? The station is non-functional and so were the pumps
Vegetable and fruit market-Cubans can buy as much as they want with the national peso-the currency Cubans used (as compared to the CUC, the higher value Cuban currency used by tourist and by Cubans who can get access to it. 1 CUC = 25 pesos). Pork is the national meat; it is plentiful and accesible with pesos
The Chinese cemetery on the left. On Wednesday, our third day in Havana, we did our own walking tour (about 5 miles) starting in Vedado and heading east to Centro Habana and Habana Vieja (Old Havana). Just a few blocks into our walk, still in Vedado, we stumbled upon Jalisco Park, the amsument park where my parents used to take me as a child-it's still open and functional  
On the left is an interestingly shaped apartment building. On the right is the majestic entrance to the "Necropolis de Cristobal Colon" (cemetery), currently under repair.
The majesty of one of the oldest and largest cemetery's in the America's caught our eye as can be seen in the next several frames
24 hour cafeteria. The options for nourishment in such places is minimal, but one can typically satiate the hunger pains without difficulty 
Plaza de la Revolucion-Cuban flag on the left Jose Marti's statute center
School of Orthodontistry-Centro Habana
The aroma of freshly baked bread poured out of this building, one of many bread baking locations in the city. These bread bakeries take pesos and are easily accesible to Cubans, as long as you get there earlier rather than later when the bread may run out
Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus, Habana Vieja
Hardware store (ferreteria) in Habana Vieja
Most Cuban exiles remember Almacenes Ultra as a top notch department store in Habana Vieja

Big "Roble" tree in the "Parque de la Fraternidad" next to the Capitol
Acorss the street from "El Capitolio" (Capitol) we stopped for lunch at "los Nardos", one of about 3 Spanish social clubs that have survived the test of time and the revolution. Upstairs is a perfectly air-conditioned full restaurant serving typical Spanish food
El Capitolio (notice our gang, except for yours truly) in the foreground)
Partagas, probably the best known Cuban cigar maker, is housed in this building behind El Capitolio 
The "Centro Gallego" (Galician Center), now the Gran Teatro de la Habana, is an architectural masterpiece  
Bacardi building, once the hub of the Bacardi rum dynasty
Iglesia del Santo Angel, my uncle Tio Coco, sent me here on an errand to try to locate a very old certificate (1800's) of marriage from our family. Unfortunately, the church was locked and nobody was available in the afternoon when we went there
Palacio Presidencial (Presidential Palace), of course not utilized as living quarters by Fidel or Raul.
The Granma, the boat in which Fidel traveled from Mexico to Cuba when he started the revolution is enshrined in this building (with 24/7 heavily armed guards) behind the Presidential Palace. It has been an everlasting symbol of the revolution
El Morro castle, behind us, marks the entrance to "La Bahia de La Habana" (Havana habor)
La Cabana, massive fortress behind El Morro, was utilized by many Cuban rulers as a prison. Some of the horrific stories of imprisonment and prisoner deaths, including those by Castro's well known firing squads, took place here  
Fishing boats moored at the entrance to the harbor
Calle de adoquines (cobblestones) in Habana Vieja
Catedral de San Cristobal de La Habana (Havana's Cathedral)
Statute of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, Cuba's first patriot in the quest to gain independence from Spain
"Museo de la Ciudad" (City Museum), formerly the Municipal Government building.
Amazing architecture in Habana Vieja
An old neon sign marks "La Pina de Plata" (The Silver Pinapple"), a restaurant
At the end of our long walking tour, stopping at "El Floridita" was a must. Here  is where Ernest Hemigway hung out and enjoyed sipping on daiquiris.

CUBA-GETTING AROUND

Most of us are aware of Cuban's unique ability to keep 1950's american cars running, particularluy Chevy's. The following pictures will not only show you some of these automotive miracles, but also the many different modes of transportation Cubans have implemented as part their austere creativity
Invariably, 1950's American cars are followed by a plume of exhaust fumes that can choke the most hardy of us mortals 
Horse powered wagons are everywhere; this one runs down my old neighborhood Marianao, a suburb of Havana. Most animals in Cuba, whether beasts of burden or stray cats and dogs appear malnourished and ill. 
This Ford truck, probably 1940's vintage is kept in an unusual protected carport.
The dead are transported in these rather well maintained covered pickups. Notice the colorful flower mats that cover the top of the truck where the coffins travel 
Transtur, the Cuban tour agency, carries tourists, mostly European and Canadian across Cuba. A well preserved Triumph is parked in the shade
As we approcahed this scene on foot, the guy who was riding the bicycle repeatedly and frustratingly tried to accomodate his bicycle on the motorcycle, so he could hitch a ride on the motorbike 
Even station wagons are still running
Pedal powered taxis are everywhere in Habana Vieja
This motorbike looked like it was on its last leg (tire) but stioll running!
Major violent crime is non-existent in Cuba, but petty crimes like pick pockets, are common in Habana Vieja and Centro Habana where many tourists congregate. The government has established a special police force to cover these areas as a deterent. This "Patrulla" (patrol) had just nabbed someone (notice the back seat is occupied) as we walked by
Many Ladas (Russian cars left over from before the collapse of the Soviet Union) are still running and many of them serve as taxis
Coco taxis: a motrocycle with a funny looking dome that provides some protection to the passagers. Notice the driver (center) is required to wear a helmet
Chinese-made Viazul buses are the main method of transportation between the major cities and towns in Cuba. They are comfortable and have a bathroom, but the ride is not as smooth as in American buses. This is the one that took us to Trinidad for 27 CUC's (about $30) one way. We received a 5% discount for buying our round trip tickets, but even though there is a sign advertising the discount, you are only entitled to it if you ask for it.
Vegetable vendor in Trinidad uses a tricycle-type method of transporting his goods
The main method of transportation for Cubans to-from work are these trucks (camiones), which have benches for people to sit while they travel. When the benches are full, people stand and hang on for dear life

Thursday, April 08, 2010

My view of Cuba

We all appear to be doing 'themes' of Cuba, and since my fascination was with the old cars, I thought I'd show the pictures I had taken, until my second and last camera battery died...silly me, I didn't bring the charger to Cuba.  I took a few more with Jorge's camera and I'll try and post them.This line of cars was at the airport, waiting to pick people up. I'm not sure how Tikki got in here, I think he stowed away in my suitcase...An old hearse.The cars were in better shape than most buildings.  If Cubans could sell all those old cars to American car buffs, I bet they would become a rich nation!

Saturday, April 03, 2010

CUBA-FAMILY REUNION

During the next few weeks we will document our pilgrimage to Cuba, my homeland. A journey so fabulous and inspiring it has given our family a new sense of being and belonging. This first blog documents the family reunion on March 23, 2010, which took place in Humberto's backyard, the same backyard I spent a lot of time in as a child when the house was occupied by my grandparents. The party was not only filled with wonderful joyful emotions, but with the most delicious plentyful food we had consumed in some time. The 5 hour feast started with grilled Caribbean lobster, croquetas and Loly's tamales, and later moved on to roast pork, moros, grilled fresh red snapper, rice with corn and salad. Of course, there was plenty of cerveza Bucanero and Crystal, as well as Havana Club Rum, perhaps the best in the world.   JIR
My cousin Humberto
Danny enjoys visiting with Teresita, my oldest
cousin

Luis (left) husband of Delia, my cousin who is visiting Miami now; son Liester (center). Steve, our soon-to-be son-in-law is on the right of the frame

Second cousins Annelisse (left) and Aliette; Aliette's husband Rodolfo is center
Humberto helps Loly with fish grilling. Danny pigs out
Steve, yours truly and Anelisse (Teresita's youngest daughter; one of my second cousins)
Humberto uncorks white wine
The blue tent was specifically set up for the party and provided much needed shade during the sunny afternoon.
Humertico, star second baseman and Humberto's grandson.
Daniela Victoria, Anelisse's daughter
Fabio, Alissette's youngest of 2 boys; smart, mischevious and constantly on the move.
Rodolfo, Aliette's husband, recovering from a nasty fibular fracture which had to be pinned.
Fabio carries Toy, Humberto's new dog
Anelisse helps her uncle Humberto at the grill
Teresita, gorgeous in her younger years, still shows her beauty, both external and internal. My oldest cousin, she took care of me often as a baby and child.    
Teresita shows me the neighborhood. Victor Daniel, Anelisse's oldest (brother of Daniela Victoria) walked with us through the neighborhood.

Toy wants to taste Chicky's cafecito

Christian (left), Alissette's oldest son, was elusive like any 13 year old, but we caught him in this shot.
The whole gang